Choosing Fabrics for Health and the Planet: A Guide to Synthetics, Semi-Synthetics, and Naturals

When we think about fabrics, most of us focus on their look and feel, soft cotton, silky viscose, stretchy leggings. But what we wear does not just affect our style. Fabrics also have a direct impact on our health and the environment.

This guide explores the three main categories of fabric: synthetic, semi-synthetic, and natural, and what you should know about each before making your next sewing or shopping decision.

Synthetic Fabrics: Plastics in Disguise

Polyester, nylon, acrylic, PVC, and elastane (spandex) belong to the family of synthetic fabrics. At their core, these are plastics derived from petrochemicals. Their production is highly energy-intensive and relies on hazardous chemicals, creating a significant environmental burden.

For our health, synthetics pose a different challenge. With every wash and wear, they release microplastic fibers that enter waterways, build up in the food chain, and eventually make their way into our bodies. Research suggests these particles may contribute to inflammation and other health concerns. In addition, synthetic fabrics trap heat and moisture against the skin, which can make them uncomfortable and even irritating when used in tight-fitting clothes or activewear.

If you do need stretch or durability, blends with no more than 5 to 8 percent elastane are considered safer and easier to wear while limiting synthetic content.

Semi-Synthetic Fabrics: A Mixed Bag

Semi-synthetics bridge the gap between natural and synthetic fibers. They start with natural raw materials, such as wood pulp, but are heavily processed with chemicals to become fibers like viscose, modal, Tencel (lyocell), and bamboo rayon.

Each of these has a different impact. Viscose, one of the most common, is soft and drapey but linked to deforestation and chemical pollution. Modal is often considered a slightly better option, with smoother fibers and somewhat cleaner production. Bamboo rayon is sometimes marketed as an eco-fabric, but in reality, most bamboo fabrics undergo the same harsh chemical processes as viscose. A more sustainable version does exist, mechanically processed bamboo (bamboo linen), but it is rare and more expensive. The standout, however, is Tencel (lyocell), produced in a closed-loop system that recycles water and solvents while using wood from certified sustainable forests.

From a health perspective, semi-synthetics are more breathable than polyester and usually softer on the skin, which makes them comfortable to wear. Still, because some versions rely on harsh chemicals, fabrics like viscose and bamboo rayon may carry a heavier ecological cost unless produced responsibly. When possible, choose Tencel for the best balance of comfort and sustainability.

Natural Fabrics: The Healthier Choice

Natural fabrics include cotton, linen, hemp, wool, and silk. Because they come directly from plants or animals, they are generally more breathable, skin-friendly, and biodegradable than their synthetic counterparts. When produced responsibly, they are also far kinder to the planet.

Take cotton, for example. It is one of the most familiar and widely used fibers, but conventional cotton has earned the nickname “dirty crop” because it relies on heavy pesticide use and enormous amounts of water. For your health, cotton is gentle and breathable, making it an excellent choice for everyday wear. Whenever possible, it is best to choose organic cotton, certified by labels such as GOTS or Oeko-Tex, which reduces chemical residues that may come into contact with your skin.

Linen and hemp stand out as two of the most sustainable natural fibers. Both require very little water, thrive in less fertile soils, and need minimal pesticides. The fabrics they produce are not only durable and breathable but also hypoallergenic, meaning they are less likely to irritate sensitive skin. Their ability to regulate body temperature also makes them particularly comfortable in hot weather.

Then there is wool, a fiber valued for its durability and versatility. Wool naturally resists odors, helps regulate body temperature, and wicks moisture away from the skin. These properties make it a healthy choice for both warm and cool climates. By choosing ethically sourced wool with certifications like RWS (Responsible Wool Standard), you can also ensure animal welfare is respected.

Finally, silk remains a luxurious option with a unique sheen and drape. Beyond its beauty, silk is naturally hypoallergenic, smooth against the skin, and resistant to dust mites, making it a good choice for people with allergies. Traditional silk production, however, raises ethical concerns, as it typically involves killing silkworms. Alternatives such as peace silk or Ahimsa silk provide a more compassionate choice without sacrificing elegance.

While natural fabrics still require farming and resources, they generally offer healthier and more sustainable benefits compared to synthetics. They allow the skin to breathe, reduce the risk of irritation, and avoid the hidden dangers of microplastic exposure.

A Practical Way Forward

Switching your wardrobe and sewing projects entirely away from synthetics is not always realistic. The best approach is gradual:

- Start with garments that are worn closest to the body, like underwear, t-shirts, and pajamas.
- Choose better fabrics for new sewing projects, investing in organic or certified sustainable options.
- Keep blends minimal and elastane content low.
- Look for certifications such as GOTS, Oeko-Tex, FSC, or RWS to ensure fabrics meet higher environmental and ethical standards.

By making small, conscious changes, you can reduce your footprint and sew or shop in ways that are healthier for both you and the planet.

Conclusion